Introduction to Sewing Knit Fabric

Sewing knit fabric can be both exciting and intimidating, especially for beginners. Unlike woven fabrics, knit fabrics have a unique stretch and flexibility that requires special techniques. Whether you’re making a cozy sweater, a pair of stretchy leggings, or a stylish t-shirt, understanding how to work with knit fabrics is essential. But where do you start? Let’s dive into some expert tips for sewing knit fabric that will take your projects to the next level.

Understanding the Basics of Knit Fabric

Before you even pick up your sewing machine, it’s important to understand the nature of knit fabric. Knit fabrics are made from interlooping yarns, which give them their signature stretch. There are two main types of knit fabrics:
– Stretchy knits (e.g., jersey, interlock, ribbing)
– Less stretchy knits (e.g., thermal, sweatshirt fleece)

Each type of knit fabric behaves differently, so it’s crucial to choose the right one for your project. For example, if you’re making a fitted t-shirt, a stretchy knit like jersey is ideal. On the other hand, if you’re crafting a loose-fitting sweater, a less stretchy knit might be more appropriate.

Essential Tools for Sewing Knit Fabric

While you can sew knit fabrics with a basic sewing machine, having the right tools will make the process much smoother. Here are a few must-haves:

• Jersey needle or stretch needle: These needles are designed specifically for sewing knit fabrics. They have a rounded tip that won’t pierce or run the fabric.
• Serger or overlock machine: A serger is ideal for finishing the seams of knit fabrics, as it trims the excess fabric and prevents fraying. If you don’t have a serger, you can use a zigzag stitch on your regular sewing machine.
• Walking foot or Teflon foot: These specialized feet help guide the fabric smoothly under the needle, reducing the risk of bunching or stretching.

Top Tips for Sewing Knit Fabric

Now that you have the right tools, let’s talk about the techniques that will make your sewing experience a success.

1. Use the Right Stitch

The type of stitch you use is critical when sewing knit fabrics. Unlike woven fabrics, which can be sewn with a straight stitch, knits require stitches that allow for stretch. Here are a few options:

• Zigzag stitch: This is a versatile stitch that works well for most knit fabrics. It allows for stretch and is easy to implement on any sewing machine.
• Stretch stitch: Some sewing machines have a stretch stitch option, which is specifically designed for sewing knit fabrics. This stitch is similar to a zigzag but is more compact.
• Overlock stitch: If you have a serger, the overlock stitch is the way to go. It not only sews the fabric but also finishes the seams in one step.

2. Don’t Pull the Fabric

One of the biggest mistakes sewists make when working with knit fabrics is pulling the fabric while sewing. This can stretch or distort the fabric, leading to an uneven finish. Instead, let the fabric feed naturally under the needle. If you find that the fabric is bunching up, consider using a walking foot or Teflon foot to guide it smoothly.

3. Use a Ballpoint Pin

Regular straight pins can leave holes in knit fabrics or even cause runs. To avoid this, use ballpoint pins, which have rounded tips that won’t damage the fabric. These pins are specifically designed for sewing delicate or stretchy fabrics.

4. Press Seams Carefully

When pressing seams on knit fabrics, it’s important to be gentle to avoid scorching or flattening the fabric. Use a low heat setting on your iron and avoid using steam. You can also place a piece of cloth, like a pressing cloth, between the iron and the fabric for extra protection.

5. Don’t Forget to Finish Your Seams

Knit fabrics tend to fray less than woven fabrics, but it’s still important to finish your seams to give your project a professional finish. If you have a serger, use it to overlock the seams. If not, you can use a zigzag stitch or even bind the seams with bias tape.

6. Choose the Right Pattern

Not all sewing patterns are suitable for knit fabrics. Make sure to select patterns that are specifically designed for knits. These patterns will take into account the stretch and drape of the fabric, ensuring a flattering and comfortable fit.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Even experienced sewists can run into problems when working with knit fabrics. Here are a few common mistakes to watch out for:

• Using the wrong needle: As mentioned earlier, using a sharp needle can damage the fabric and lead to runs.
• Stretching the fabric while sewing: This can cause the fabric to become misshapen or uneven.
• Not using a stretch stitch: A straight stitch won’t allow for the necessary stretch, which can lead to popped seams.

Conclusion

Sewing knit fabric doesn’t have to be daunting. With the right tools, techniques, and a little practice, you can create beautiful, professional-looking garments. Remember to choose the right fabric for your project, use a stretch stitch, and avoid pulling the fabric while sewing. Most importantly, don’t be afraid to experiment and try new things. Happy sewing!