Understanding Knit Fabrics

Knit fabrics are known for their elasticity and comfort, making them a popular choice for garments like t-shirts, leggings, and sweaters. However, sewing with knit fabrics can be challenging, especially for beginners. Unlike woven fabrics, knits have a degree of stretch, which requires specific techniques and tools to handle effectively.

Before diving into your project, it’s important to understand the different types of knit fabrics available. Common varieties include jersey, ribbing, interlock, and stretch velvet. Each type has its own unique characteristics, so choosing the right one for your project is crucial.

Essential Tools for Sewing Knit Fabrics

To successfully sew knit fabrics, you’ll need the right tools. Here are a few essentials to get you started:

• Jersey Needle or Stretch Needle: These needles are designed specifically for sewing knit fabrics. They have a rounded tip that gently pushes through the fabric without causing runs or damage.
• Serger or Overlock Machine: A serger is ideal for finishing seams on knit fabrics, as it trims the seam allowance and encases the edges in a thread casing. If you don’t have a serger, a zigzag stitch on a regular sewing machine can be used as an alternative.
• Walking Foot or Teflon Foot: These specialized presser feet help guide the fabric smoothly under the needle, reducing the risk of bunching or stretching.
• Ballpoint Pins: These pins are designed for use with knit fabrics, as they have a rounded tip that won’t damage the fabric or create permanent holes.

Preparing Your Fabric

Before you start sewing, it’s important to prepare your fabric properly. Here are a few steps to follow:

First, wash and dry your fabric to pre-shrink it. This step ensures that your finished garment won’t shrink after it’s sewn. Next, lay out your fabric on a flat surface and smooth out any wrinkles. If your fabric is prone to curling at the edges, you can use a spray stabilizer to help keep it flat while cutting.

Patterns and Cutting

When working with knit fabrics, it’s best to use patterns specifically designed for stretchy fabrics. These patterns will have a built-in margin for stretch and will ensure a proper fit. Look for patterns labeled as “knit-friendly” or “stretch.” If you’re using a pattern designed for woven fabrics, you may need to make adjustments to accommodate the stretch of the knit fabric.

When cutting out your fabric, always cut on the grain. The grain refers to the direction in which the fabric was knitted. Cutting off-grain can cause the fabric to stretch unevenly, leading to a distorted shape in your finished garment. Use your ballpoint pins to secure the pattern pieces to the fabric, making sure not to stretch or pull the fabric as you cut.

Sewing Techniques

Sewing knit fabrics requires a few special techniques to ensure a professional finish. Here are some tips to keep in mind:

Use a stretch stitch or zigzag stitch when sewing seams on knit fabrics. These stitches allow the fabric to stretch without breaking the thread. If you’re using a serger, make sure to set it to the appropriate tension for the thickness of your fabric.

When hemming knit fabrics, it’s best to use a twin needle. This specialized needle creates two parallel rows of stitches, allowing the hem to stretch along with the fabric. You can also use a coverstitch machine for a professional-looking hem.

Don’t pull or stretch the fabric as you sew. This can cause the fabric to become misshapen or lead to uneven stitching. Instead, let the fabric feed smoothly under the needle, using a walking foot or Teflon foot to guide it if necessary.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Even with the right tools and techniques, sewing knit fabrics can be tricky. Here are a few common mistakes to avoid:

• Using the Wrong Needle: Using a sharp needle instead of a ballpoint or jersey needle can cause runs or holes in the fabric.
• Not Using a Stretch Stitch: Using a straight stitch on knit fabrics can lead to popped seams when the fabric stretches.
• Over-tightening Seams: Pulling the fabric too tightly while sewing can cause it to pucker or distort.
• Not Pre-shrinking the Fabric: Skipping the pre-shrink step can lead to a garment that shrinks unevenly after completion.

Conclusion

Sewing with knit fabrics can seem intimidating at first, but with the right tools, techniques, and a little practice, you can create beautiful, professional-looking garments. Remember to choose the right pattern, use the appropriate needles and stitches, and take your time when cutting and sewing. With these tips, you’ll be well on your way to mastering the art of sewing knit fabrics.