Introduction to Sewing on Knit Fabric

Sewing on knit fabric can seem intimidating at first, especially for those new to working with stretchy materials. Unlike woven fabrics, knits have a unique texture that requires special techniques to ensure a professional finish. Whether you’re making a cozy sweater, a pair of stretchy leggings, or a trendy t-shirt, understanding how to sew on knit fabric is an essential skill for any sewer.

Why Is Sewing on Knit Fabric Different?

Knit fabrics are made from interlooping yarns, which give them their signature stretch. This stretchiness means that knits behave differently under a sewing machine needle. If not handled properly, seams can pucker, stretch out of shape, or even break. To achieve a smooth, durable finish, you’ll need to use the right tools and techniques.

Essential Tools for Sewing Knit Fabrics

Before diving into your project, make sure you have the right tools on hand. Here are a few must-haves:
– **A serger or overlock machine**: These machines are designed to handle stretchy fabrics and create clean, finished seams.
– **A stretch needle**: If you’re using a standard sewing machine, a stretch needle is a must. It’s specifically designed to pierce knit fabrics without causing runs or damage.
– **Ballpoint pins**: These pins have rounded tips that won’t damage the fabric as you sew.
– **Knit-specific thread**: Use a high-quality thread that has some stretch to it, such as polyester or cotton-wrapped polyester.

Preparing Your Fabric

One of the most important steps in sewing with knits is preparing your fabric. Here are a few tips to get you started:
– **Pre-wash your fabric**: Just like with any fabric, pre-washing ensures that it won’t shrink or change texture after you’ve completed your project.
– **Iron your fabric**: Knit fabrics can be prone to wrinkles, so give them a good press before cutting to ensure accuracy.
– **Use a walking foot**: If you don’t have a serger, a walking foot attachment for your sewing machine can help guide the fabric smoothly and prevent bunching.

Basic Sewing Techniques for Knits

Once you’ve prepared your fabric and gathered your tools, it’s time to start sewing. Here are some basic techniques to keep in mind:
– **Use a zigzag stitch**: The zigzag stitch is ideal for sewing knits because it allows the fabric to stretch without breaking the stitches. On a standard sewing machine, set the stitch length to 2-3 mm and the width to 5-6 mm.
– **Sew in the same direction**: Always sew knits in the same direction to maintain their texture and prevent distortion.
– **Don’t pull the fabric**: Resist the temptation to pull the fabric as it feeds through the machine. Let the machine do the work to avoid stretching or distorting the fabric.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Even experienced sewers can run into trouble when working with knits. Here are a few common mistakes to watch out for:
– **Using the wrong needle**: A sharp, universal needle can cause runs and damage to the fabric. Always use a stretch or ballpoint needle when sewing knits.
– **Sewing too tightly**: Knits need a bit of give to maintain their shape. If your stitches are too tight, the fabric may pucker or lose its stretch.
– **Not using a stabilizer**: If you’re sewing a particularly stretchy knit, consider using a stabilizer like interfacing to keep the fabric steady as you sew.

Tips for Working with Different Types of Knits

Not all knits are created equal. Different types of knit fabrics have unique characteristics that require slightly different approaches. Here’s how to handle a few common types:
– **Jersey knit**: This is one of the most common types of knit fabric. It’s lightweight and has a soft, smooth texture. Use a stretch needle and a zigzag stitch for best results.
– **Ribbing**: Ribbing is a type of knit fabric with a textured, ribbed surface. It’s often used for cuffs and waistbands. Use a serger or overlock machine to sew ribbing, as it allows for maximum stretch.
– **Fleece**: Fleece is a thick, brushed knit fabric that’s perfect for cold-weather projects. Use a ballpoint needle and a straight stitch, as fleece doesn’t require much stretch.

Finishing Your Seams

Finishing your seams is an important step in sewing with knits. Here are a few methods to keep your seams looking professional:
– **Overlocking**: If you have a serger, overlocking is the quickest and easiest way to finish your seams. Simply feed the raw edges through the machine, and it will trim and encase them in one step.
– **Zigzag stitching**: If you don’t have a serger, you can use a zigzag stitch on your standard sewing machine to finish the seams. This method won’t trim the excess fabric, so be sure to trim it carefully with scissors.
– **Binding**: For a more polished look, you can bind your seams with a stretchy binding tape. This is especially useful for visible seams, like those on a t-shirt neckline.

Conclusion

Sewing on knit fabric may take a little practice to get the hang of, but with the right tools and techniques, it’s a skill that any sewer can master. Whether you’re making clothes, accessories, or home decor items, knits offer a world of creative possibilities. So don’t be afraid to dive in and start experimenting – with these tips, you’ll be sewing like a pro in no time!