What Exactly Is Double Knit Fabric?

Before we dive into the big question—is double knit fabric stretchy?—let’s get our definitions straight. Double knit is a double-layered fabric created by interconnecting two single-knit fabrics. The result? A stable, medium-to-heavyweight textile that looks the same on both sides. Unlike single jerseys that roll at the edges, double knits lie flat, making them a dream for home sewers and fashion studios alike.

So, Is Double Knit Fabric Stretchy or Just “Stable”?

Here’s the quick skinny: yes, double knit fabric is stretchy, but it’s not a yoga-pant level of stretch. Most double knits give you about 15–25 % horizontal stretch and almost zero vertical stretch. That mechanical give comes from the interlock structure, not from high-content spandex. Translation? You get comfort without the sausage-skin fit. If you’re after a fabric that recovers nicely after bending your elbow or sitting at your desk, double knit checks the box.

Stretch Percentage: How to Test It at Home

Grab a 4-inch swatch along the cross-grain (that’s perpendicular to the selvage). Pin one end to the table, hold a ruler next to it, and tug gently until you feel resistance. Did it lengthen to 5 inches? Congrats, that’s 25 % stretch. Anything under 10 % means you’ve probably landed a firm double knit more suited to tailored jackets than body-con dresses.

Double Knit vs. Single Knit: Who Wins the Stretch Battle?

Single jersey, rib, and pointelle knits can stretch 50–100 %, so why pick a double knit? The keyword here is recovery. Single knits sag at the knees and seat after a few hours; double knits snap back like a well-trained gymnast. If your project needs a polished look that survives a full day of wear, double knit is your workhorse. On the flip side, if you need four-way stretch for leggings, you’ll want something with 5–8 % spandex instead.

Best Garment Matches for Double Knit’s Gentle Stretch

• Ponte dresses: skim curves without clinging.
• Structured cardigans: the slight stretch prevents shoulder popping.
• Straight-leg pants: comfortable for commuting yet office-appropriate.
• Skater skirts: the fabric’s body gives that perfect twirl.

Pro Tip

When sewing, use a stretch or lightning-bolt stitch and a ballpoint needle; the double layers can fool your machine into thinking it’s thick denim.

Does Fiber Content Change the Stretch?

Absolutely. A polyester-spandex ponte (often 5 % spandex) feels bouncier than a cotton-rayon double knit. Wool double knits, popular in European tailoring, have micro-stretch that molds to the body over time. Bamboo blends? Super soft with a gentle hug. So when you ask, “is double knit fabric stretchy?” always tag on “made of what?”

Quick Reference: Fiber vs. Stretch

Fiber Blend	Typical Stretch	Best Use
Poly/Spandex 95/5	20–25 %	Ponte dresses, leggings
Cotton/Rayon	10–15 %	Casual blazers
Wool	10 %	Winter skirts

Can You Increase Double Knit’s Stretch in a Sewing Project?

You can’t turn a Porsche into a pick-up, but you can optimize. Cut your pattern so the greatest stretch goes around the body, not up and down. Add gussets or knit interfacing in stress points like the crotch curve. And hey, a ½-inch seam allowance sewn with a zig-zag keeps the give intact—no waddling with straight stitches here, folks.

Shopping Checklist: 5 Questions to Ask Before You Buy

1. What’s the horizontal stretch percentage?
2. Is there spandex listed?
3. Does it recover quickly after a tug?
4. Will the color fade on high-heat pressing? (Double knits love steam.)
5. Is the fabric 300 g/m² or heavier for that premium hand-feel?

The Bottom Line

Double knit isn’t the stretchiest kid on the block, but its measured give, superb recovery, and classy drape make it the Goldilocks choice for garments that need to look sharp and feel comfy. Next time someone asks you, “is double knit fabric stretchy?” you can confidently reply, “just enough to keep you moving—and no more.”