Which Double Knit Fabric Type Should You Choose for Your Next Project?
When you first type list of double knit fabric types into the search bar, you probably expect a neat bullet list and a quick exit. But here’s the kicker: not all double knits behave the same way once the scissors come out. Choosing the wrong one can turn a dream dress into a saggy mess faster than you can say “interlock”.
Why Double Knits Deserve a Closer Look
Double knit is a generic term for any fabric that is knitted on both sides, creating a stable, reversible cloth. Because the yarns interlock twice, the fabric resists curling, drapes smoothly, and rarely needs a lining. That same stability, though, can feel either luxurious or cardboard-stiff depending on fiber content and stitch density. So before we dive into the list of double knit fabric types, it helps to know what performance you actually want—stretch, loft, recovery, or warmth.
The Ultimate List of Double Knit Fabric Types You’ll Actually Find Online
Below is the market-tested roster you can bookmark for sourcing. Each entry includes fiber blends, weight range, and the garment category it loves best. Let’s keep it practical.
1. Cotton-Spandex Interlock
Weight: 180–220 g/m²
Stretch: 30–40 % cross-wise
Cotton interlock is the gateway double knit. It’s breathable, toddler-skin soft, and takes prints like a champ. T-shirts, baby leggings, and comfy pajamas live here. One heads-up: it can grow a size after a day’s wear if you skip stay-tape on shoulders. Yep, that’s a lesson I learned the hard way—twice.
2. Polyester-Spandex Ponte di Roma
Weight: 280–350 g/m²
Stretch: 25 % two-way
Ponte is the workhorse you see in sheath dresses and fitted blazers. Its face looks smooth while its reverse has subtle horizontal ridges. Because polyester is hydrophobic, ponte resists wrinkles and coffee drips like a pro. On the flip side, it can feel hot in humid climates. If you sew for clients in the tropics, consider bamboo-ponte blends instead.
3. Rayon-Nylon-Spandex Heavy Ponte
Weight: 380–420 g/m²
Stretch: 20 % two-way
This luxury cousin drapes like liquid and recovers like a memory spring—ideal for body-con skirts that need to snap back after you sit. It’s pricier, but the silky face reads “high-end” even in solid black. Pro tip: use a stretch needle 90/14 and lengthen your straight stitch to 3 mm; otherwise the rayon can snag.
4. Wool or Wool-Blend Double Knit
Weight: 300–400 g/m²
Stretch: 15–25 %
Think Chanel-style cardigans and winter sheath dresses. Wool double knit traps air pockets, so it’s warm without bulk. It presses beautifully, letting you create crisp hems on raw edges. Don’t forget to pre-shrink; steam alone won’t save you from post-sewing surprises.
5. Scuba Knit (Poly-Spandex, Finer Filament)
Weight: 230–270 g/m²
Stretch: 40 % four-way
Scuba is the fashion-forward sibling of ponte. It has a spongy hand and a neon color range that photographs brilliantly for online boutiques. Because it’s springy, scuba works for swing dresses and circle skirts that need body. One drawback: it can feel rubbery against bare skin, so many makers line the bodice with cotton voile.
6. Jacquard Double Knit
Weight: 250–320 g/m²
Stretch: 10–20 %
Patterns—geometric, florals, houndstooth—are knitted in, not printed. Jacquard double knits are fantastic for statement jackets or straight-leg pants. Because the design is structural, the fabric is thicker; grade your seams to reduce bulk.
7. Tech-Stretch Double Knit (Recycled Poly & Spandex)
Weight: 200–240 g/m²
Stretch: 50 % four-way, high recovery
Marketed as athleisure, this fabric wicks sweat and offers compression. Yoga pants, cycling shorts, and even light-support shapewear rely on it. Bonus: many mills now use recycled fishing nets, so you can tick the sustainability box for eco-minded buyers.
8. Bamboo-Blend Interlock
Weight: 160–200 g/m²
Stretch: 35 %
Bamboo interlock feels cool to the touch, making it a staple for base layers and summer tees. It dyes into rich pastels and has natural UV resistance. Just note that bamboo can pill if tumble-dried hot; recommend cold-wash flat-dry care labels.
Matching Project to Fabric: Quick Cheat Sheet
- Structured office dress → Rayon-Nylon Heavy Ponte
- Sporty bomber jacket → Tech-Stretch Double Knit
- Wrap top needing fluid drape → Wool or Rayon-Blend Double Knit
- Kids’ play overalls → Cotton-Spandex Interlock
- Photogenic circle skirt → Scuba Knit
Shopping Hacks Nobody Tells You
1. Always check the mechanical stretch, not just the spandex percentage. A 5 % spandex scuba can out-stretch a 10 % spandex ponte because of knit structure.
2. Order swatches, then do a 30-minute stretch-and-recovery test: clip a 10 cm length, stretch to 15 cm, let rest, and measure. Good recovery shows less than 5 mm growth.
3. If you need color matching later, buy the whole project yardage upfront. Dye lots change quicker than Instagram trends.
4. When you need warmth without wool, layer a bamboo interlock lining under a ponte shell. You’ll trap air yet stay animal-fiber-free.
Transitioning from Swatch to Sewing
Okay, you’ve narrowed the list of double knit fabric types to the chosen one. Now what? Stabilize, stabilize, stabilize. Use clear elastic on shoulder seams and waistbands; it prevents the dreaded “hammock” sag after a few wears. For hems, twin-needle stitching works, but if you hate the ridge, go for a cover-stitch or even a binding in self-fabric. And hey, don’t forget to switch to a ball-point needle; a universal one will pierce fibers and leave ladders that scream “home-made” in the worst way.
The Bottom Line
Mastering double knits is less about hoarding every variety and more about picking the right horse for your particular race. Keep this expanded list of double knit fabric types bookmarked, order swatches like you’re building a wine cellar, and you’ll dodge costly mistakes while sewing garments that look store-bought. Ready to hit “add to cart” with confidence? Your future makes are already thanking you.
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